This headline could have been written 15 years ago, in response to carnicore hipsterism, with its gentrified takes on meat-heavy fast food and artisanal butchering being the new playing bass in a hardcore band. (That particular subcultural current is also probably not unconnected to the hipster-culture-to-alt-right pipeline, as exemplified in Vice Magazine-adjacent edgelordism. After all, making eating meat part of one’s identity serves well to own the libs.)